32 C O N T E X T 1 7 4 : D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 2 DAVID BURTON Conservation in the Southern Ocean With South Georgia now an ecosystem in recovery, the evocative, physical remains of the whaling past are being cared for and presented to adventurous visitors. On the edge of the windswept throes of the South Atlantic and the frigid Southern Ocean there is a British Overseas Territory fighting to preserve a dark past while also celebrating a wildlife revival. Part of its unique story is the built heritage and the need to conserve it. The island of South Georgia lies 1,400 kilometres southeast of the Falkland Islands (another British Overseas Territory), but has its own government and legislation. The territory includes the more remote South Sandwich Islands, another 500 kilometres to the south east. South Georgia itself is home to two stations, run by the British Antarctic Survey on behalf of the Government of South Georgia and South Sandwich Islands (GSGSSI). Through careful management and large-scale protection, the islands are now renowned for their rich wildlife, which supports both a sustainable fishery (where much of the government’s income originates) and environmentally conscious tourism industry (through small-scale expedition cruise ship visits). One late afternoon this winter, the GSGSSIs patrol ship, FPV Pharos SG, steamed out of the administrative centre of King Edward. For a couple of hours, the vessel had been rolling gently in the luxury of relatively calm seas (a rarity for the Southern Ocean), sheltered from the prevailing westerlies by the lee of the land. Its destination was the abandoned whaling station at Prince Olav Harbour. On its final approach the first signs of once-frantic human activity were spotted, an old navigational marker on a promontory, followed by more and more buildings that began to emerge from the shoreline. The island of South Georgia’s relatively short human history is rich and full of intrigue. It can be divided into roughly five themes, resting within the following categories: seafaring and Stromness Whaling Station, South Georgia, in the summer (Photo: Ross James) The cruise ship Ocean Adventurer lying off Grytviken Whaling Station (Photo: Niki Souness)
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