C O N T E X T 1 7 4 : D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 2 33 navigation; exploitation of the natural environment; the heroic age of Antarctic exploration; scientific endeavour and sovereignty; and defence. Prince Olav, one of five land-based whaling stations on South Georgia, is inextricably linked to the exploitation of the natural environment. The harbour was initially used as a site for the sealing industry, and whaling activities followed. This culminated in the buildings which are still visible ashore, 90 years after their abandonment. The name itself celebrates the unique cultural blend on South Georgia, which included, among others, many Norwegian whalers. The station operated for only 20 years before becoming the first station to close on the island, in 1931–2. Throughout the following decades many items were salvaged for use in the other whaling stations on the island; however, Prince Olav manages to retain a unique character. Due to its small size and being more geographically constrained within its own narrow valley in comparison to the other land-based stations, it is much more intimate, unlike the sprawling industrial stations from the latter period of whaling found in Stromness Bay. Shortly after arrival a rigid-hulled inflatable boat was launched, and we cruised around the edge of the whaling station, skirting the 200metre exclusion zone. All but one whaling station is out of bounds unless you have a special permit to enter. The abandoned buildings pose an obvious safety risk as they continue their managed decline and are in various states of collapse. There is also a hidden danger: many of the structures contain asbestos and so great care must be taken.The remaining buildings are photographed to document their present stage of decay. It is particularly poignant to observe this whaling station as it continues to deteriorate in the harsh environment of South Georgia. The whaling stations on South Georgia reflect one of humankind’s greatest achievements. The structures themselves showcase the remains of a once-booming whaling industry. It speaks of a time when no thought was spared on the moral and ethical use of a natural resource being fully exploited. Even once the sustainability of such harvesting was put into question, the problems of the commons allowed it to continue until multiple species of whale were almost extinct. Thanks to a turning tide of public perception on whaling, these activities ceased, and the International Whaling Commission was able to place a moratorium on whaling. Nowadays tourist ships visit the island and spend time watching whales surround their vessels. The ruins on South Georgia and the stacks of discarded harpoon heads rusting on the beach are a reminder of how humankind can reach consensus to move forward and conserve nature. It also speaks of how much more there still is to do. It represents a time which is in stark contrast with what the islands are renowned for around the world today: their rich wildlife. Come summer, The Whalers Church, Grytviken (Photo: Ross James)
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