Context 141 - September 2015

C O N T E X T 1 4 1 : S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 5 43 influences. The Norse-style longhouses are timberframed, with thatched and earth roofs. However, the use of thick turf and earth walling, set above a broad plinth of local stone, is more characteristically Celtic than Norse. Respect is due to the historic inhabitants of Iceland who assembled the plinths from volcanic stone.This stuff is the heaviest, most abrasive and intransigent natural material I have ever come across. As part of the placement, we reconstructed the base of an earth-and-stone field byre. A good sub-floor drainage system is a critical component in the low-lying, wetter parts of the island, as we discovered on site. Icelanders, famously well connected to their cultural inheritance, have undertaken a number of landmark archaeological projects in recent years.The understanding of historic building traditions on the island has greatly improved as a result of the data these projects have generated. Construction types varied over time, and even between the north and south of the island. Unitary longhouses and barns, based around communal living, gave way over time to complexes of partially conjoined dwellings for individual families, connected internally by corridors and sheltered from the Atlantic winds by encircling stone walls. Many of these dwellings bear startling similarities to the traditional black houses of Britain’s Northern Isles and Outer Hebrides. This indicates that Celtic, Scandinavian and gothic building traditions fused in a variety of different ways in the past. The projecting stone walls of these buildings are said to create a particular aerodynamic effect by which the incident wind is deflected up and over the house, rather than against its roof. Whether or not this is true, the thick walls provide plenty of insulation throughout the long North Atlantic winters. Archaeology has allowed the reconstruction of some medieval longhouses, notably the farmhouse at Stong, abandoned shortly after the eruption of the Hekla volcano in 1104.The complex of structures, authentically recreated in 1974–77 at nearbyThjodveldisbaer, features the Chieftain’s House and attached barn, and a chapel, indicating that the island was Christianised by this date. The timber frame and panelling of the interior has been fashioned by hand tools, with the major timbers lashed together or jointed in the traditional manner. The interior features recreate furniture of the period, including replica butter and milk barrels. These were set into the earth of the barn’s earth floor, keeping them cool and prolonging their comestible condition. Earth-based building has continued into the modern era. During our placement we were billeted at the eco-village of Solheimar.This settlement was established in the early 20th century by the pioneering Sesselja Sigmundsdottir on progressive, anthroposophic principles similar to those of Rudolph Steiner. Individuals both with and without special needs work and live together in the same place, avoiding a tendency to separation and institutionalisation. Artistic expression, such as through craft production, organic food production and renewable energy, are important considerations in its daily operation. Many residents live here long-term, some for decades. Solheimar is a successful international centre for community ethics.The principles of inclusion are as practical, with much food grown by residents, as they are therapeutically beneficial. Iceland’s famously volatile geology is both a warning and a boon in equal measure.Geothermal energy provides virtually all of Iceland’s power needs, notably plentiful (although vaguely sulphurous) hot water and electricity. Energy costs are some of the lowest in the world. Allied to this is a sophisticated array of seismic detectors that provide advance warning of volcanic activity, and sophisticated evacuation planning.The pride and interest shown in the island’s native assets is demonstrated by the new visitor centre at the Hellisheiði geothermal power station. This is classically modern Scandinavian: sleek, angular, finely detailed, set harmoniously within its landscape and finished in smart, sober materials. When we visited in 2014, Iceland itself was showing some signs of recovery after the economic implosion of 2008–11. Central to this recovery are the obvious resolve, pragmatism and tenacity of its population – a legacy, perhaps, of the community’s pioneer origins. Through a process of continuous adaptation, Icelanders have managed to survive in some of the most hostile environments in Europe. Although many economic challenges still face the country, Icelandic history tells us that they have survived equal adversity in the past. Buildings, monuments and sites are scheduled by the Cultural Heritage Agency of Iceland. The Herringbone earth block wall construction at Thjodveldisbaer Reconstruction of a field byre as part of the Vernacular Architecture Revival programme

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