42 C O N T E X T 1 4 1 : S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 5 MATTHEW CROOK An island on the edge Through a process of continuous adaptation and recovery from disaster, the tenacious (and sometimes elf-fearing) Icelanders have managed to survive in hostile environments. I was in Iceland for a week-long placement on conserving vernacular buildings. The EU Leonardo Lifelong Learning Programme (now Erasmus) supported our stay in July 2014 through its association with the Vernacular Architecture Revival (VAR) Initiative, based in northern England. VAR’s purpose is to combat the decline of traditional vernacular building skills. It is a registered social enterprise, supported by Enterprising Communities. Its mission is ‘to develop, promote and share traditional building crafts, skills and materials using ethical, environmentally friendly and sustainable methods’. Associated with the National Heritage Training Group, it is committed to using locally available skills and materials. The Iceland placement provided an insight into the traditions of indigenous timber-framed buildings and their conservation needs.There were interesting parallels to draw between the pre-industrial lifestyles of Icelandic settlers and the present imperative to develop low-carbon solutions in an age of climate change. Our group of European participants consisted of professionals from diverse backgrounds, including a sculptor, a dry stone waller, a conservator and a builder.We were guided throughout the week by Icelandic archaeologist Margret (known familiarly as Magga) Hallmundsdottir and members of her family. Steeped in the history and culture of the island, Hallmundsdottir gave us a peerless introduction to the culture of this hitherto remote Scandinavian outpost.Without exception, the Icelanders we met were welcoming to outsiders. All displayed an abiding affection for their island, and a deep attachment to its historical culture and landscape. Iceland is now one of the world’s technologically advanced nations, well connected by the internet and a modern international airport. The archaeological indications are that the island was not permanently inhabited until the 8th to 9th centuries, originally by a contingent of Celtic settlers, possibly from the Hebrides or Ireland, and shortly thereafter by Norse peoples. Lying west of Scandinavia, the vernacular traditions of its buildings bear witness to predominantly Viking A conjoined Icelandic farmhouse at the Skogar Folk Museum
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