40 C O N T E X T 1 7 2 : J U N E 2 0 2 2 begin to feel that you are reaching the heart of the city. Rows of historic apartment blocks line the streets. 6 The Golden Gates The Golden Gates fort is one of the few surviving sections of the ancient city fortifications. Built by Yaroslav the Wise, it was designed in the Byzantine style. Its ruins were rediscovered in 1832, and were exposed and conserved, and a new gate structure was built. Heritage specialists debate the 1982 restoration, but it still remains a dominant and important part of Ukrainian history. A short stroll away you pass coffee houses and restaurants, many specialising in Ukrainian and Georgian cuisine. You will be met by a rather unusual building, now called the House of Actors. 7 Karaite Kenesa Temple (Ukrainian House of Actors) This unusual building was built in the Moorish style in the late 19th century as a Karaite Kenesa Temple. The architect was Gorodetsky, featured several times on this tour, who played a significant role in the architecture of Kyiv. The building is now a concert space. Turning north, you joinVolodymyrs’kyi Street to take you to Volodymyrs’kyi Passage. 8 St Sophia Cathedral and St Michael Cathedral These two entirely separate buildings dominate opposing ends of the Volodymyrs’kyi Passage. St Sophia Cathedral was founded between 1037 and 1044 by Grand Prince Yorslav the Wise. Designated a Unesco world heritage site in 1990, its name comes from the 6th-century Hagia Sofia. Its wedding-cake-like bell tower provides a magical entrance to the site. ‘It is one of the most breath taking works of architecture and a main attraction of the capital,’ writes Viktorija, a teacher. ‘It is extremely beautiful, playing with its golden light of domes under the Ukrainian sky. I am lucky to experience the cathedral and its spiritual beauty.’ St Michael’s was founded in 1108, but was heavily damaged in 1240 by the hordes of Batu. It was largely rebuilt in the 18th century, and again following damage in the 1930s. It is an interesting example of building restoration. ‘The golden-domed monastery is a perfect combination of blue and yellow gold – a true representation of Ukraine,’ says Galina, a linguist. ‘When you listen to their choir your heart trembles and there are no words that can fully describe the beauty.’ Nearby is the main square and the shopping quarters. 6 7 8 6 The Golden Gates: one of the few surviving sections of the ancient city fortifications, with the controversial restoration of 1982 (Photo: Amy Cowell) 7 Karaite Kenesa Temple: late-19thcentury Moorish style (Photo: Louise Priestman) 8 St Sophia Cathedral (Photo: Caitlin Maloney)
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